Oregon California border

Day 130

24.9 miles

Camped at spring, crossed Oregon/California border

It was so fun to stay in the shelter last night. It was reminiscent of some of the AT shelters and definitely warm with a fire going in a giant stone hearth when we walked up and a break from the wind. It has been getting colder as fall progresses on. I slept in my sleeping bag liner in my sleeping bag bag but also with my fleece pants and my puffy. For some reason I had never slept in my puffy before but wearing the hood kept me so much warmer than putting my sleeping bag liner over my head at night. I guess I can learn new tricks anytime! Also my next sleeping bag is going to have the mummy hood again, I definitely miss it.

Seventeen miles into our day today we crossed the OR/CA border! It only took over 2000 miles and four months! It feels great to have completed at least one entire state of the PCT. The fires prohibit us from completing WA but it is good to finish OR.

My body seems to have been listening in when we had made our plans to finish in 11 days. It seems to think it is tired, hungry, and ready to be done walking over twenty miles every day. Today my legs felt heavy and tired. My pack felt heavy. My brain couldn’t focus on listening to a story and I got distracted thinking about what kind of job I might want to apply for at home. Kevin and I talked through more of our ideas for jobs and where to go once we get home. We still have miles to go and hills to climb but at the same time we are thinking of how to get an apartment and a job. Usually one requires another so it can be tricky but last time all the details fell into place so we know this time will work out too just how it is supposed to.

The terrain of Oregon and now Northern California is so much more gradual than the jagged peaks of the northern Cascades. The tops of our climbs today were open bald mountains with some meadows in the hill slopes but also dotted with forest. The trees were nice to walk through and the rounded climbs made it a bit easier. There were some views that looked like the Smokey mountains with layers of blue hills and Shasta was showing just the summit above a giant cloud.

Back to Oregon

Day 129

10 miles

From Hwy 99 in Ashland to a shelter, first day going sobo

I am so grateful the rest of the driving went smoothly today. One of our group had contacted a trail angel to get a ride from the Medford airport (where we dropped the rental car) to the trail. It ended up being the same trail angel who had given us a ride from Shasta to Ashland around the fire originally, who also came and got us back to the trail to finish this section too. This felt full circle and she is such a wonderful person to reconnect with!

It was wild to think that this eight or nine hour driving journey covered the partial distance I have walked this summer! This feels like an accomplishment and quite the feat when I think of it that way!

It was great to get back on trail and feel the comfort and familiarity of Oregon and being back hiking. The air was clear. The skies were blue. And there was no fear of a fire popping over the ridge.

Im really excited for this section and for crossing the Oregon/California border tomorrow. I am hoping for no more fires for this section but we will see. It is fire season after all. Already the planning of getting back home, thinking about jobs, and having a place to live is creeping in and bringing a bit of stress. It is always a challenge to bring the beliefs that things will work out and we will be provided for from the trail to day to day life.

Leavenworth

Day 128

Zero day

Rode to Seattle with a trail angel to rent a car and drive to Nor Cal

The town of Leavenworth is such an interesting place! It is modeled after a Bavarian German village. Our trail angel told us the whole town decided to make this move when the town was struggling to bring in tourism so it was a financial decision. Now she said the tourism is great and many people buy second houses here from Seattle so the people who work in the town shops and such can hardly afford to live in the town and often can’t find housing. This is the story of so many mountain towns we went through on the trail and true of our home state too.

Our journey south began with having to say good bye to Gnome and Pebbles. It was so sad to part ways with them but we also fully support their journeys and have really enjoyed their company along the way.

Yesterday, a friend staying with a trail angel had told me she was heading into Seattle today and could take us. So we connected and we’re so grateful for a ride to Seattle. From there we rented a car with Semi and Shuffles to drive eight hours to Medford, OR.

First though we explored part of Seattle. I had never been here and wanted to see the market and the Puget sound. Kevin got some salmon chowder and I got an apple cider slushie. As an apple cider expert given my Michigander heritage, it was phenomenal! We also made a stop at Whole Foods and so I am carrying way too much food for a 2.5 day resupply but it is all delicious food so I’m very excited!!

We finally left the city with surprisingly little traffic and headed to a campsite just north of Portland. We found a nice state park with cheap camping to end our busy traveling zero day.

Tunnel falls

Day 111

15 miles along the Eagle Creek alternate

Camped at Marina campground in Cascade Locks, OR

Day four of rain on the trail

The beginning and end of today were both quite fun (mostly) and enchanting but the middle was a bit annoying. We woke up last night to drizzles of rain. Packing up a wet tent and damp sleeping bags wasn’t great. Clouds had moved in overnight and brought an overall dampness to the air and also rain. As soon as we had gone a couple miles down the trail, the evidence of rain spattered trail vanished. We were still mostly in a cloud but it was clearing up. The Eagle Creek alternate trail is known for its many waterfall views including Tunnel falls. We had been excited to see tunnel falls since learning of it. About five miles into our morning, I looked up to see a corner in the trail and behind the corner I could hear the loud misty sound of falling water. Tunnel falls is a very tall waterfall where the trail has been chiseled out of the rock to walk around the waterfall basin and behind the falls. The path is narrow and full of slippery rocks and over is edge is about a 50 foot drop into water. I was a bit nervous but also astounded by this neat trail. It was like a tropical rainforest with ferns and so lovely!

Once we got past the falls there were several more along the way. There were also about one hundred tourists along the trail as we got nearer to the trailhead. It was a really narrow trail with some poison oak along the side so it was rough to get over to the side of the trail to let people pass without getting a rash.

Once we got into town, we got some diner food which was needed and tried to figure out what to do in town. There was no laundry in town so I did sink laundry which was annoying but we ended the day with some French fries at the brewery. All is well that ends well, I reckon.

Ramona falls

Day 110

25.2 miles hiked

Camping at Eagle Creek alternate junction

I was slow packing up and getting ready this morning. We had a few miles going down hill then a tall climb and the rest of the day were gradual ups and downs. The smooth ways the trail has gone up and down hills in Oregon has been healing to my knees. Today is our last full day hiking in Oregon so I am soaking it up and enjoying it while also so excited for Washington!

Along the trail there have been several opportunities to take some alternative trails to get the best views. One of those was walking along the rim of Crater Lake. Today was a trail down to Ramona falls. The cascade falls glided down dark basalt cliffs with a cool breeze wafting from the base. It was absolutely beautiful! I am so glad we took the scenic route! Most of these alternates meet up with the pct further along the trail. The mileages are usually similar so we don’t miss out on the final total of trail miles overall.

After the waterfall, I used my plant ID app to check out some of the plants in the rainforest like section of trail. I passed some sicklewort lousetop plant which sounded like something from a potion in a Harry Potter book. I also noticed a Canadian Bunchberry and was excited to see a plant label Canadian since it means we are getting close! We also passed some delicious blueberries!

The last couple miles of trail were an exposed ridge walk with clouds curling up the ridge and billowing over the top. It was super neat to watch the clouds roll in but still be able to see the sun shine on the valley where we are headed tomorrow.

Food!!

Day 109

15 miles

Lunch buffet at Timberline lodge

Camped at mile 2103.4

Today we ate at the legendary Timberline Lodge buffet! Before we began the trail I had heard about this buffet. It was talked about on blogs and in YouTube videos. The food was delicious. I ate five plates of food and drank three glasses of soda! Then a few hours later, still ate dinner. The buffet did not disappoint and watching Mount Hood rise up in front of us this morning and peak around corners of the trail was astounding. From our campsite we could see the setting sun’s glow on the mountain and it was beautiful!

I was happy to get to talk to mom and Allison today as well. There was surprisingly great service at the lodge and for a couple miles after so I could hike out and talk with mom. We are getting to close to Washington and to so many other neat parts of the trail that are iconic! I am excited for every step ahead of us. Except for maybe the 60 miles south after getting to the border! Since Canada isn’t open to walking traffic yet and the nearest road has had a mudslide, we have to backtrack 60 miles on the PCT to get off of it. Hopefully the mudslide will be cleaned up by the time we get there so we can just back track 30 miles instead.

The green cathedral

Day 108

29.7 miles

Camped by Twin Lake junction

The last few days have been showing us what I am calling “the green cathedral”. On the AT, people call it “the green tunnel” because of how the rhododendron trees curl in close to you along the trail. In Oregon, we have walked through many green forests but the firs and evergreens are huge and towering above our heads like a cathedral. I love the tall trees and the wonderful fresh smells of the forest. It has been quite humid the last few days but being in the shade of the trees has been a welcome reprieve. The springs and streams we are crossing are cold and some are even glacier fed. This also makes the humidity feel less stifling. All in all, the Oregon forests and volcanoes have made me into a Pacific Northwest fan!

Hiking through Lionshead

Day 106

Camped over the ridge from Mt Jefferson view

26.1 miles

Today we got to be one of the first thruhikers of this year to legally walk through the recently opened Lionshead fire closure from 2020. On Friday, the PCTA announced the Mt Hood wilderness area had reopened their section of the trail. The first time since the fire in 2020. We are very grateful to the firefighters, trail crews, and advocates who worked hard to get this part of the trail open.

The first part of the day was through a thick shaded fir forest with some ridge top sweeping views of Mount Jefferson. Then the burn area scars became more prevalent. Thankfully, the really exposed and hot sections weren’t too long. We did have one intense river crossing at the Russell Creek. This creek is formed from run off from two glaciers higher up Mount Jefferson. It goes through a narrow canyon so the water is faster and deeper than necessary. After rock stepping across we emerged with semi wet feet.

The last part of the day was a 3000 foot climb. It has been awhile since we have had to do that long of a climb. At the top of the ridge, the view of Mount Jefferson was phenomenal and we could see the crevices on the glacier. It was a big challenging to find a campsite on the other side of the ridge without dead trees or a wind tunnel. But finally I am warm in my sleeping bag and feeling sleep tug at my eyelids.

Back to trail!

Day 105

Camped at Wasco lake

Hiked 10.7 miles

Today was filled with the process of returning to trail. We had to drop off the rental car at the Redmond airport since they were open on Sundays. It was great to hang out in the airport for awhile to charge our devices. I never realized how perfect airports are for hikers! Bathrooms, outlets, drinking fountains, and restaurants, all while indoors and air conditioned! Then we took an Uber to the town of Sisters, OR. The farmers market was going on in the town square and there was a booth with gluten free dairy free pastries and it was heaven. So far Oregon has had fantastic food in all the towns! There we met Mick who gave us a ride to trailhead. Thanks Mick!

The trail was exposed and warm for the first couple of miles but soon cooled off in evening. It felt great to be back to the trail with 653 miles remaining, but also the body felt sore and not wanting to move. After a good dinner, we headed to bed.

Day 104

Double zero!

At PCT days in Cascade Locks, OR

Staying on Thunder Island overnight during PCT days is not for everyone. We had decided to stay one night and then drive out of town to a trailhead for the second night. Frankly, I am not sure if anyone got much sleep last night on the island. It was lively with people playing games and hanging out late into the night hours. I was super tired so I watched some Netflix in the tent, then put in my ear plugs and went to sleep. This morning, everyone was quite much longer than a usually trail morning. I could sleep in longer and was grateful for that.

We had to strategize which booths and giveaways we would attend today. A lot of the gear companies at trail days were giving away cool things and we won some good stuff. It was fun to attend a presentation by a previous thruhiker and veteran. We even saw a friend and fellow AT class of 19 hiker!

After the whole thing ended, we hopped in the car to take off feeling powerful to actually have a form of transportation other than our feet! We hit up Taco Bell and than a random trailhead to sleep before returning the car in the morning.